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巴丹吉林沙漠中的曼德拉山巖畫(下)

大黃蜂

<h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;PingFang TC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">2</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">月</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">13</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">日臨近中午,我和饒老師從海拔1400米的曼德拉山巖畫保護管理站出發(fā),在木棧道上徒步走了一個多小時,翻過海拔</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1700</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">多米的第一個埡口,出現(xiàn)在我眼前的還是一條干涸的古河道。老魏在下面曾囑咐說:你們走到這個河道時還要再往里走</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">1</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">公里多,走到第二個埡口就能看到山坡上的巖畫。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">對我來說,走到第二個埡口就算完成</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">到此一游</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">”。</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">如果想看更多巖畫,則需要請老魏做向?qū)?,走到更深,?lt;/span><span style="font-family: PingFangSC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">遠的地方才能看到更多,更精彩的巖畫。</span><br><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">老魏說:去年,有</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">3</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">個韓國年輕人飛到蘭州,包車來曼德拉山拍巖畫。他們在我這兒吃,住三天,我每天帶他們上山,共拍到</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">900</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">多幅巖畫,他們滿意而歸。</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">而</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">我在山上看到的巖畫還不足</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">100</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">幅,但對我來說已經(jīng)足夠。因為除了巖畫,曼德拉山本身還是一座極棒的地質(zhì)公園,并且絲毫不遜色國內(nèi)任何</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">“</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">5A</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">”</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">國家地質(zhì)公園。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">也許曼德拉山現(xiàn)在僅有一個“巖畫保護管理站”,僅老魏一個管理員,還不是“景區(qū)”的緣故,當我們翻過埡口,看到的是一個原始,洪荒,空曠,沉寂的荒野,</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 25.946666717529297px; font-weight: bold;">到處籠罩著神秘的寂靜。沒有任何人為干擾痕跡。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 25.946666717529297px; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 25.946666717529297px; font-weight: bold;">我周圍萬籟俱寂。經(jīng)億萬年風蝕的砂礫巖千奇百怪,古貌蒼然。山脊上隆起一條條黑色玄武巖柱狀節(jié)理巖脈,巖脈周圍散落著大片大小不等的黑色玄武巖石塊。幾千上萬年過去,這些火山噴發(fā),巖漿凝固的石塊似乎從來沒有被挪動過。火山噴發(fā)恍如昨日。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 25.946666717529297px; font-weight: bold;">因為這里的一切都太原始,太沉寂。</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 25.946666717529297px; font-weight: bold;">我們好像置身于地球以外的另一個陌生的星球上,這樣的感覺真的很奇妙,也很新鮮。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">我和饒老師在曼德拉山游玩</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">4</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">個多小時,整座大山里就只有我們兩個人。當天,老魏就賣出我和饒老師二張門票。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">從山上下來,已經(jīng)下午</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">4</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">點,我們尚未吃午飯。我和老魏商量,室外天氣太冷,我是否可以在他的辦公室里用自己帶來的瓦斯爐和方便面煮鍋面條。老魏爽快答應,并從他的廚房里拿來一瓶自己做的辣子,讓我們往面條里多放辣子。他說:這個辣子不辣,很香。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">我在煮面和吃飯的時候,老魏就坐在屋里和我聊天。我問老魏,春節(jié)是怎么過的。老魏說:我這兒不能離開人,</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">3</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">個孩子都來這里和我們老二口過年。</span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-size: 19.46pt; font-weight: bold;">我開玩笑地對老魏說:您現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)是網(wǎng)紅名人。他笑著說:這二年,有不少媒體,還有新華社的人過來采訪我。旗里的人也帶記者過來拍電視。還有不少像你一樣的人在網(wǎng)上看到我,專門過來看我。</span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">老魏對這份兒管理員工作非常滿意。他說:旗里每年上凍前,都會給我送過來3噸多煤,足夠一冬天燒的。每年開春,我和老伴在河灘上自己種菜,還養(yǎng)了</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">30</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">多只羊。種的菜,除了羊糞,不施化肥,不打農(nóng)藥。到了夏秋,種的菜根本吃不了,有朋友過來,往往就讓他們拉走一袋子。</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">30</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">多只羊平時就放養(yǎng)在山上,渴了,它們會自己下來飲水。山里有狼,但我的羊一只都沒有少過。</span><br></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">不過,</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">隨著巖畫博物館的建成,水,電接入管理站。我估計老魏和他老伴的</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">“</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">蜜月</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">”</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">或?qū)⒔Y(jié)束。</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 23.2px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Bold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"></span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">下午5時許,</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">我們離開曼德拉山,重新駛上</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">。還是茫茫大漠戈壁,還是一路向東。傍晚夜幕降臨,到達</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIText-Semibold&quot;; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">S317</span><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;">零公里的巴彥諾日公鎮(zhèn)。</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 19.5px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Text&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: PingFangTC-Semibold; font-weight: bold; font-size: 19.46pt;"><br></span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><font face="PingFangTC-Semibold"><span style="font-size: 25.946666717529297px;"><b>本篇圖片全部拍自曼德拉山巖畫保護區(qū)。</b></span></font></h3>