<p class="ql-block">Crater Lake National Park，火山口湖國(guó)家公園建立于1902年5月22日，是美國(guó)俄勒岡州唯一的一個(gè)國(guó)家公園。這個(gè)位于海拔8000多英尺（約2,438.4米）高的湖，位于俄勒岡州南部，這個(gè)湖泊位于一個(gè)火山口內(nèi)，該火山口是在7700年前形成的，當(dāng)時(shí)一座12000英尺（約3700米）高的馬扎馬山（Mount Mazama）火山在一次大規(guī)模噴發(fā)后坍塌所致。這次噴發(fā)可能是北美過(guò)去64萬(wàn)年中規(guī)模最大的一次。后來(lái)的噴發(fā)形成了巫師島，它是一個(gè)位于西海岸附近的火山渣錐體。</p><p class="ql-block">湖水最深處592米，是美國(guó)最深的湖泊，也是北美第二、世界第九深的湖泊。如果按平均湖深來(lái)看，火山湖的平均深度為350米，是西半球最深的湖泊，世界第三深湖泊。湖面海拔1900多米。沒(méi)有任何污染，湖水藍(lán)的耀眼。面積為183,224英畝（74,148公頃），湖的寬度4.5至6英里（7至10千米），最高點(diǎn)斯科特山，海拔8929英尺（2721米）。</p><p class="ql-block">最佳旅游季節(jié)是六月初，雪尚未融化，配合著漂亮的湖水，好似世外天堂。每年來(lái)火山口湖國(guó)家公園參觀的遊客人數(shù)在40萬(wàn)人左右，2024年游客人數(shù)超過(guò)了50萬(wàn)人。</p><p class="ql-block">除了整座公園的靈魂--火山湖外，公園還因積雪著稱(積雪厚度有時(shí)能超過(guò)15米)。冬季塑造了火山口湖的景觀。來(lái)自太平洋的暴風(fēng)雨每年平均帶來(lái)44英尺的降雪，使得這片地形在一年中的八個(gè)月里被白雪覆蓋。在7000多年前，融雪形成了湖泊的純凈水源，而這一過(guò)程一直延續(xù)至今。</p><p class="ql-block">在湖泊盆地內(nèi)，凍結(jié)和融化的循環(huán)緩慢侵蝕著巖石峭壁和松散的山坡。在湖泊盆地外，由雪水融化滋養(yǎng)的大量泉水形成了小溪，這些小溪滋養(yǎng)著森林和野花，并為鳥(niǎo)類和哺乳動(dòng)物提供了棲息地。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:18px;">如今，古老的森林覆蓋著火山的山坡，這里生長(zhǎng)著超過(guò)700種本土植物，還有至少 72種哺乳動(dòng)物。</span>該公園對(duì)于當(dāng)?shù)孛乐抻〉诎膊柯涞奈幕瘋鹘y(tǒng)至關(guān)重要，這些部落的祖先見(jiàn)證了這個(gè)湖泊的形成過(guò)程。</p> <p class="ql-block">How did crater lake get its name?</p><p class="ql-block">火山口湖是怎么得名的？</p><p class="ql-block">"Crater Lake” might seem like an obvious moniker, but it was hardly the first name to be applied to this park's largest body of water. In fact, over the years, it has proven to be somewhat controversial. Does it accurately reflect the lake's true origins? And to which crater does the name actually refer? This year marks the 156th anniversary of the expedition that bestowed the title. Let's recount the events that led to the christening and attempt to shed light on these longstanding questions.</p><p class="ql-block">“火山口湖”這個(gè)名稱看似顯而易見(jiàn)，但實(shí)際上它遠(yuǎn)非被賦予給該公園最大水域的首個(gè)名稱。事實(shí)上，多年來(lái)，它一直存在一些爭(zhēng)議。它是否準(zhǔn)確地反映了湖的真正起源?而這個(gè)名稱究竟指的是哪個(gè)火山口?今年恰逢賦予這一稱號(hào)的探險(xiǎn)活動(dòng)舉行156周年。讓我們回顧那些促成命名的事件，并嘗試解答這些由來(lái)已久的問(wèn)題。</p> <p class="ql-block">The first party of European Americans to stumble across the lake, in 1853, dubbed it “Deep Blue Lake." The second, in 1862, simply called it “Blue Lake." Over the next few years, it would be hailed by other visiting groups as“Great Sunken Lake," “Hole-in-the-Ground," and “Lake Majesty."The Klamath Tribes, whose ancestors witnessed the lake's formation, know it as “Giwas.” (Unfortunately, the meaning of that word has been lost to time.)</p><p class="ql-block">第一批歐洲裔美國(guó)人于1853年偶然發(fā)現(xiàn)了這個(gè)湖泊，并將其命名為“深藍(lán)湖”。第二批于1862年到達(dá)時(shí)，直接稱其為“藍(lán)湖”。在接下來(lái)的幾年里，其他到訪的群體又給它冠以了“大沉沒(méi)湖”、“地洞湖”和“尊湖”等名號(hào)?？ɡR什部落的人們，其祖先見(jiàn)證了湖泊的形成，稱之為“吉瓦斯”(不幸的是，這個(gè)詞的含義已隨時(shí)間流逝而失傳)。</p> <p class="ql-block">James McCall Sutton was a resident of Jacksonville,</p><p class="ql-block">Oregon, a gold-rush town 60 miles (97 km) southwest of the lake. Sutton had met some of the lake's early visitors, and had read stories about it in The Oregon Sentinel, the local newspaper at which he was a writer and editor.</p><p class="ql-block">Determined to see the ballyhooed wonder for himself, he organized a midsummer excursion in 1869 for a group of five men, five women, and six children.</p><p class="ql-block">詹姆斯·麥考爾·薩頓是俄勒岡州杰克遜維爾的居民，那是一個(gè)淘金熱小鎮(zhèn)，位于湖的西南方向60英里(97公里)處。薩頓曾結(jié)識(shí)過(guò)一些湖的早期訪客，并在《俄勒岡哨兵報(bào)》上讀到過(guò)關(guān)于湖的報(bào)道。他曾在當(dāng)?shù)匾患覉?bào)紙擔(dān)任撰稿人和編輯。為了親眼見(jiàn)證這個(gè)被大肆宣傳的奇跡，他在1869年組織了一次仲夏遠(yuǎn)行，參與者包括五名男子、五名女子和六名兒童。</p> <p class="ql-block">The excursion was, more accurately, an expedition. The party traveled slowly in three horse-drawn wagons on a primitive road blazed four years earlier by the US Army(a route now followed by Highway62).They endured lightning storms, yellowjacket swarms, wildfire smoke, creek crossings, and a rough and rocky road punctuated with tree stumps. They reached the lake on August 3rd, after an eight-day journey, maneuvering their wagons off- road to climb the last three miles to the rim.</p><p class="ql-block">更確切地說(shuō)，這次遠(yuǎn)足是一次探險(xiǎn)活動(dòng)。一行人乘坐三輛馬拉大車，沿著一條由美國(guó)陸軍四年前開(kāi)辟的原始道路緩慢行進(jìn)(這條路線如今已成為62號(hào)公路的一部分)。他們經(jīng)歷了閃電風(fēng)暴、馬蜂群、野火煙霧、小溪涉水，以及布滿樹(shù)樁的崎嶇不平的道路。經(jīng)過(guò)八天的跋涉，他們于8月3日抵達(dá)了湖邊，隨后將大車駛離公路，艱難地攀爬最后的三英里到達(dá)湖岸邊緣。</p> <p class="ql-block">“To say that this wonderful lake is grand, beyond description, is to give no idea of its magnificence," Sutton reported, in an article he penned later that month for The Oregon Sentinel.“Everyone gazes at it for the first time in almost tearful astonishment.”The silence of his party, however, was soon broken by exclamations of maternal concern:“Look out for the children! Stand back Cora! Look out for Zetta! Come back Jimmy! Come back Peter!”</p><p class="ql-block">“要說(shuō)這片美妙的湖泊壯麗無(wú)比，難以言表，那只是對(duì)其壯麗之處的冰山一角，”薩頓在當(dāng)月晚些時(shí)候?yàn)椤抖砝諏诒鴪?bào)》撰寫(xiě)的一篇文章中這樣寫(xiě)道?！皫缀趺總€(gè)人都第一次凝視著它，眼中充滿了感動(dòng)的淚水?！比欢?，他一行人中的沉默很快被母性的關(guān)切所打破:“小心孩子們!往后退，科拉!當(dāng)心澤塔!快回來(lái)，吉米!快回來(lái)，彼得!”</p> <p class="ql-block">None of the kids went over the brink, but before long, the men did, intentionally. In their wagons, they'd brought along a supply of wooden planks, nails, and tar.Wrote Sutton: “Each man now shouldered up a portion of our boat material, and after a few timid glances down the fearful incline, started boldly over the loose, crumbling bank, starting bevies of loose boulders at every step, at the eminent danger of any one who dared venture ahead of the party." They spent the afternoon assembling their rowboat at the shore.</p><p class="ql-block">孩子們都沒(méi)有越過(guò)邊緣，但不久之后，那幾個(gè)男人卻故意這么做了。在他們的獨(dú)輪手推車?yán)?，他們攜帶了一堆木板、釘子以及焦油。薩頓寫(xiě)道:“現(xiàn)在，每個(gè)人都扛起了我們?cè)齑牧系囊徊糠?。在怯生生地朝下瞥了一眼那令人生畏的斜坡后，他們開(kāi)始大膽地越過(guò)松軟、搖搖欲墜的河岸，每走一步都會(huì)碰到一堆堆松動(dòng)的巨石，任何走在隊(duì)伍前面的人都面臨著極大的危險(xiǎn)?！彼麄冋麄€(gè)下午都在岸邊組裝他們的劃艇。</p> <p class="ql-block">The next day, they launched the vessel into a stiff head- wind and rowed for an hour to reach the lake's conical island, two miles distant. “This island is but a loose pile of cinders," lamented Sutton, though they succeeded in scrambling to its summit. There, they discovered a “basin like crater," 90 feet (27 meters) deep, with a snowbank at the bottom, and they proclaimed themselves the first humans ever to set foot on the isle. They scrawled their names on a scrap of paper, which they placed in a glass bottle and left inside the crater.</p><p class="ql-block">第二天，他們頂著強(qiáng)逆風(fēng)將船劃行了一個(gè)小時(shí)，抵達(dá)了距離他們兩英里遠(yuǎn)的那個(gè)圓錐形小島?！斑@個(gè)島不過(guò)是一堆松散的煤渣堆罷了，”薩頓哀嘆道，盡管他們最終還是設(shè)法爬上了島頂。在那里，他們發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個(gè)“盆狀隕石坑”，深達(dá)90英尺(27米)，底部有一層雪堆。他們宣稱自己是踏上這座小島的第一批人類。他們?cè)谝粡埣埰虾鷣y寫(xiě)下自己的名字，然后將其放入一個(gè)玻璃瓶中，并將其留在隕石坑內(nèi)。</p> <p class="ql-block">Sutton had hoped to circumnavigate the lake and measure its depth at different points, but “owing to the frail nature of our boat, and strong wind," the party chose to forgo that objective. Still, they did take one sounding, half a mile from the island, and determined the water to be 550 feet (168 m) deep. “Could we have reached the deepest part, no doubt we would have found it 1,500 or 2,000 feet deep." Sutton's prediction would be confirmed in 1886 when the lake was plumbed by scientists from the US Geological Survey.</p><p class="ql-block">薩頓原本希望能繞湖一周，并在不同位置測(cè)量湖深，但由于“我們的船只較為脆弱，加之風(fēng)力強(qiáng)勁”，一行人決定放棄這一目標(biāo)。盡管如此，他們還是在距離島嶼半英里處進(jìn)行了一次測(cè)深，并確定湖底深度為550英尺 (168米)?！叭绻覀兊拇恍阅芨?，毫無(wú)疑問(wèn)可以探測(cè)到深度達(dá)1500或2000英尺的區(qū)域?！彼_頓的預(yù)測(cè)將在1886年得到證實(shí)，當(dāng)時(shí)來(lái)自美國(guó)地質(zhì)調(diào)查局的科學(xué)家們對(duì)這片湖泊進(jìn)行了勘測(cè)。</p> <p class="ql-block">The adventurers returned to Jacksonville in mid-August, When Sutton's two-part story about the expedition, “Trip to Crater Lake," ran in the August 21st and 28th editions of The Oregon Sentinel, it marked the first time the name “Crater Lake” had appeared in print. Sutton was thus credited with naming the lake, although it's not clear he ever claimed that distinction. Either way, his entertaining account seems to have cemented the name in the public consciousness.</p><p class="ql-block">So, what inspired the moniker? Well, that's been a persistent mystery. In his article, Sutton offers no explanation, which has led some observers to conclude that the“crater” in the title refers not to the basin in which the lake rests but to the cavity the men found at the summit of the island.</p><p class="ql-block">Two pieces of evidence support this theory. First, while Sutton's article twice refers to the island's “crater,” it not once uses the term to describe the larger gulf. Second, a contemporary of Sutton’s, Orson Stearns, recalled in an 1896 memoir that Sutton had “renamed the lake after the crater discovered in the top of Wizard Island.’</p><p class="ql-block">Still, it seems more likely that the crater on Sutton's mind was indeed the one occupied by the lake. His lack of commentary on the subject suggests that the more obvious explanation is the correct one. And, while he may not have labeled it a “crater,” he clearly recognized the lake's volcanic setting, noting that the water was “entirely surrounded by walls of light-colored basalt, scoria, and almost every conceivable variety of volcanic productions.” Further, Sutton refers to the island as “Crater Lake Island,”implying that he named the lake prior to naming the cone. (It would not acquire the name“Wizard Island”until 1885.)</p><p class="ql-block">這次探險(xiǎn)活動(dòng)《前往火山口湖之旅》發(fā)表于8月21日和28日的《俄勒岡哨兵報(bào)》上，這標(biāo)志著“火山口湖”這個(gè)名稱首次出現(xiàn)在印刷品上。因此，人們將命名該湖的功勞歸于薩頓，盡管不清楚他是否曾公開(kāi)宣稱這一榮譽(yù)。不管怎樣，他那引人入勝的描述似乎已在公眾意識(shí)中牢固地確立了該湖的名稱。</p><p class="ql-block">那么，這個(gè)綽號(hào)的靈感來(lái)源是什么呢?這始終是個(gè)謎。在文章中，薩頓并未提供任何解釋，這導(dǎo)致一些觀察家推斷，標(biāo)題中的“隕石坑”并非指代湖泊所在的那片盆地，而是指代人們?cè)趰u嶼山頂發(fā)現(xiàn)的那個(gè)洞穴。有兩個(gè)證據(jù)支持這一理論。首先，雖然薩頓的文章中兩次提到該島的“隕石坑”，但卻從未用這個(gè)詞來(lái)描述那個(gè)更大的海灣。其次，薩頓的同時(shí)代人奧森·斯特恩斯在1896年的一篇回憶錄中回憶道，薩頓“根據(jù)在巫師島上部發(fā)現(xiàn)的隕石坑，給那個(gè)湖重新命名”。</p><p class="ql-block">盡管如此，似乎更有可能的是，薩頓腦海中的那個(gè)坑洞實(shí)際上就是被湖泊占據(jù)的那個(gè)。他未就此話題發(fā)表評(píng)論，這似乎表明，更顯而易見(jiàn)的解釋是正確的。而且，雖然他可能沒(méi)有明確稱之為“坑洞”，但他顯然意識(shí)到了這個(gè)湖泊的火山背景，指出湖水“完全被淺色玄武巖、火山渣以及幾乎所有可以想象的火山產(chǎn)物所環(huán)繞”。此外，薩頓將這座島嶼稱為“坑洞湖島”，暗示他是在給這個(gè)火山口命名之后才給湖泊命名的。 (直到1885年，它才獲得“巫師島”這一名稱。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">The other enduring controversy about the Sutton expedition relates to the meaning of the word “crater.” In modern geologic parlance, a“crater” is a vent (like the one on Wizard Island) formed from the ejection of volcanic material. The lake, properly speaking, sits inside a“caldera,” a depression formed from the collapse of a volcanic peak. So, some would argue, shouldn't we call it “Caldera Lake”?</p><p class="ql-block">關(guān)于薩頓探險(xiǎn)的另一個(gè)持久的爭(zhēng)議與“霧石”一詞的含義有關(guān)。在現(xiàn)代地質(zhì)術(shù)語(yǔ)中，“火山口”是由火山物質(zhì)噴出形成的通風(fēng)口（如巫師島上的噴口）。正確地說(shuō)，這個(gè)湖位于一個(gè)“火山口”內(nèi)，這是一個(gè)火山峰坍塌形成的洼地。所以，有些人會(huì)爭(zhēng)辯說(shuō)，我們不應(yīng)該叫它“卡爾德拉湖”嗎？</p> <p class="ql-block">Perhaps, but in the 19th century, the term“caldera” was not commonly used, even among geologists. It had been added to the lexicon by a German geologist in 1825 but was not yet widespread. It’s hard to fault Sutton's word choice, especially since geologists had yet to visit the lake and come to understand that it was the legacy of a catastrophic implosion.</p><p class="ql-block">也許，但在19世紀(jì)，“卡爾德拉”一詞并不常用，即使在地質(zhì)學(xué)家中也是如此。它于1825年被一位德國(guó)地質(zhì)學(xué)家添加到詞典中，但尚未廣泛使用。很難指責(zé)薩頓的措辭，特別是因?yàn)榈刭|(zhì)學(xué)家還沒(méi)有參觀過(guò)這個(gè)湖，并了解到這是災(zāi)難性的中爆的遺留問(wèn)題。</p> <p class="ql-block">James Sutton died at the age of 48 and is buried in Ashland, Oregon. We may never know for sure how Crater Lake got its name, but thanks to Sutton's colorful report, we know much about the thrills and travails experienced by the members of his expedition 156 years ago.</p><p class="ql-block">James Sutton去世，享年48歲，被埋葬在俄勒岡州的阿什蘭。我們可能永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)確定火山口湖是如何得名的，但多虧了薩頓豐富多彩的報(bào)告，我們對(duì)156年前探險(xiǎn)隊(duì)成員所經(jīng)歷的刺激和磨難有了了解。</p> <p class="ql-block">Historians credit James Sutton (1830-1878) with giving Crater Lake its present name. His 1869 article in The Oregon Sentinel marked the first time the name was seen in print. Born in Illinois, Sutton traveled to Oregon at the age of 20 in search of gold. Later he ran a drugstore, served as a postmaster, and worked as a writer and newspaper editor.</p><p class="ql-block">歷史學(xué)家們認(rèn)為詹姆斯·薩頓(1830-1878)為克賴特湖取了現(xiàn)在的名字。1869年他在《俄勒岡哨兵報(bào)》上發(fā)表的文章，標(biāo)志著這個(gè)名字首次出現(xiàn)在印刷品上。薩頓出生于伊利諾伊州，20歲時(shí)前往俄勒岡州淘金。后來(lái)他經(jīng)營(yíng)一家藥店，擔(dān)任過(guò)郵政局長(zhǎng)，還當(dāng)過(guò)作家和報(bào)紙編輯。</p> <p class="ql-block">Artist Paul Rockwood's conception of Mount Mazama, the volcano that collapsed to form Crater Lake. If you gathered up the ash from the mountain's big eruption and spread it evenly across the state of Oregon, it would form a layer 8 inches (20 cm) thick.</p><p class="ql-block">藝術(shù)家保羅·洛克伍德描繪的馬扎馬火山，就是那座塌陷后形成火山口湖的火山。要是把這座火山大噴發(fā)產(chǎn)生的火山灰收集起來(lái)，均勻地撒在俄勒岡州，能形成一層8英寸（20厘米）厚的灰層呢。 </p> <p class="ql-block">OREGON'S GREAT CURIOSITY </p><p class="ql-block">Several of our citizens returned last week from a visit to the Great Sunken Lake. It is thought to average 2,000 feet down to the water all round. The walls are almost perpendicular, running down into the water and leaving no beach. No living man ever has, and probably never will, be able to reach the water's edge. It lies silent, still, and mysterious in the bosom of the hills, like a huge well scraped out by the hands of the giant genii of the mountains. The lake is certainly a most remarkable curiosity.</p><p class="ql-block">In the 1860s, newspapers began trumpeting the existence of a mysterious lake at the crest of the Cascade Mountains. Vivid language was their only tool; the lake wouldn't be photographed until 1874.This passage comes from an 1865 story in The Oregon Sentinel.</p><p class="ql-block">俄勒岡州的偉大奇觀</p><p class="ql-block">我們的一些公民上周從一次對(duì)大沉湖的探訪中返回。據(jù)信，整個(gè)湖的平均深度達(dá)到2000英尺。湖壁幾乎是垂直的，一直延伸到水中，沒(méi)有露出任何沙灘。沒(méi)有活人曾經(jīng)到過(guò)，可能也永遠(yuǎn)無(wú)法到達(dá)湖的邊緣。它靜靜地、不動(dòng)聲色地、神秘地坐落在山巒的懷抱中，仿佛是大山的巨靈之手開(kāi)鑿出的一座巨大深井。這個(gè)湖泊無(wú)疑是一個(gè)極其引人注目的奇景。</p><p class="ql-block">在19世紀(jì)60年代，報(bào)紙開(kāi)始大肆宣揚(yáng)卡斯凱德山脈頂峰存在一個(gè)神秘的湖泊。生動(dòng)的語(yǔ)言是他們唯一的工具;直到1874年，這個(gè)湖泊才首次被拍攝下來(lái)。這段文字摘自1865年《俄勒岡哨兵報(bào)》中的一篇報(bào)道。</p> <p class="ql-block">（文章源于網(wǎng)絡(luò)）</p> <p class="ql-block">2025年8月4日第18期</p><p class="ql-block">本期編輯：Sophia</p><p class="ql-block">本期圖片： Sophia</p>